Tag Archives: Peace Symbol

Yoga Pants to Dye for!

2021

Yoga Pants, Lorraine Cook, 2014

front and back views

It is a great pleasure to introduce a guest blogger to share with us some of her marvelous wearable art.  Lorraine Cook lives, works, and plays in Interlachen, Florida in the USA.  TieDyedHippy.com is the place to view and purchase her wares.  After several years of learning the basics, Lorraine has developed her own personal style of tie dyeing unlike any other.  She was gracious enough to photograph her process, documenting the magic to share here at Up and Dyed.  Friends, prepare to be inspired!

In her words:

01

 I start with a pair of white cotton  yoga pants that have been soaked overnight in soda ash water, spun out in the spin cycle of my washing machine to get all the excess water out, and then hung on a hanger until they have completely air dried.

I lay them out flat and draw areas where I want the stars, peace sign, hip and lower right leg designs to be. Then I use a 3 lb coffee container lid to trace the half and full circles on the right leg.

02

Beginning with the 8-point star at the top of the wearer’s left leg, I fold and tie that, working my way down to the next star, and finally the peace sign.

04

05

06

Moving to the right leg, I fold the leg in half, with the inside and outside seams meeting and clip the edges together in a couple places to keep the fold in place.[editor’s note: Lorraine is using paper binder clips to secure her work. Clothes pins, or any similar clamp will work fine.]  Starting with the top half circle I pleat along the drawn line and then band it tight with sinew on the line and then tie 4 sections making the sinew tight. I work my way down the leg doing the other half circles the same way.

0708

I unfold the bottom section of the right leg, below the half circles, and lay that out flat so I can see the “V” lines that I’ve drawn. I pleat along each line, starting at the top one and working my way down. Keep the line straight when you pleat, pulling it around the corner when you get to it. Band each of those lines loosely, not tight like the circles. When you pull the sinew tight it leaves white lines.

09

 After doing the legs move up to the hip area, laying that out flat and banding it (not tight) as you pleat along the curved lines. Once you’re done with that, lay the pants out, and, beginning at the bottom of one leg, gather the material  in sections, wrap with the sinew, pulling it tight, until you’ve got the entire thing banded up.
11

13

14

15

16

I use the rainbow for my color selection but you can use whatever colors you like. I like to start with the stars when I begin dyeing. When I’m done with each of those I wrap them up good in plastic wrap using a rubber band to keep them in place.

17

The plastic wrap keeps each area from touching other areas and transferring one color onto another, which ALWAYS happens to me when I don’t wrap them. After dyeing the 2 stars and peace sign I finish up that leg and move on to the other one, doing the half-circles the same way, wrapping them in plastic as soon as I’m done dyeing each one.

18

19 .
Since most of the pants have been tied tight with the sinew it will take MUCH time and patience to add the dye to each section. I use a syringe and literally drip the dye, one drop at a time, onto the cotton. It can take upwards of 3 hours for me to finish dyeing a pair.

Have fun and change up your colors and design placement to create your look!!

22

   23


I hope you found this information useful.  If so, please consider making a donation to help keep my site advertisement free.

Advertisements

8 Comments

Filed under How to, Patterns

Dye Thickening Agents

1891042_771937972834388_1935056245_n    

The first 15 years of my career using procion fiber reactive dyes, I unknowingly limited my artistic flexibility and growth as a fiber artist.  When I began using dye thickeners, a whole new avenue of control over the medium was opened for me to explore.  The use of thickeners gives the dyer control over  spreading and absorption of the dye products, allowing for far greater versatility of direct application.

I must share this story with you to help you understand the full value of today’s blog.  In the early 1990s, I began to produce a very popular design, the Peace Symbol.  My first peace symbols were SO bad, that a family purchased one at a festival thinking it was an ‘Earth’!  I worked on the technique for the peace symbol, got it looking better, clearer, crisper.  At the same time, I began marketing ‘earth’ shirts, by making a blue sphere filled with green blobs.  It was a very weak interpretation of the globe, but patrons recognized the image, so I continued  marketing that creation for several years.  Until I discovered the wonders of using a dye thickener.

554816_605297286165125_1655375084_n

There are basically two products from which to choose.  Both are available from Dharma Trading Company in various quantities.  I recommend purchasing a small quantity of each, and evaluate the performance of each in several projects.   Both agents have their advantages and disadvantages:

  • Sodium Alginate is derived from seaweed, sold under the name Manutex, is all natural, does not affect the shelf life of the dyes, is very economical,  and is formulated for use with cotton (HV), or with silk (LV).  The disadvantage is that it is sold in a granulated form and must be mixed with water and then allowed to thicken for several hours before using.  It also has a oceany odor that might be offensive to some folks.
  • SuperClear is ready to use directly from the container, is odorless and clear, mixes readily with the dye.  However, it is expensive, and in my experience, it exhausts the dye mix very quickly.  It is best used for quick projects requiring only small amounts of thickened dye.  SuperClear is a synthetic product.

Normally, I stock both products in my studio, but primarily use sodium alginate to thicken fiber reactive dyes.

To prepare and use sodium alginate:

  1. Measure 1 cup of  hot tap water into a deep, wide-mouthed container.
  2. Using a submersible blender, begin stirring the water.
  3. Slowly add one to two Tablespoons of the granules as the blender is running.
  4. Continue blending as the liquid thickens, about 45 seconds.
  5. Stop blending and immediately rinse the blender head.
  6. Allow the mixture to cool and thicken for several hours before use.
  7. Divide the mixture into small, lidded containers, one for each color of dye.  Left over sodium alginate can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for several days.
  8. Stir liquid dye into the small container until the desired consistency is achieved.  Test the spreadability of the resulting mixture by dripping onto a paper towel.  Wait 30 seconds to evaluate the spreading.  Water can be added to thin the consistency.
  9.  A thin mixture, similar to syrup, will slow the spread of the dye and can be used in a syringe or squeeze bottle.
  10.  A very thick mixture, similar to mayonnaise, will stop the spread of the dye, and can be used with a paint brush or sponge or stamp, or in a squeeze bottle.
  11. Use on fabric presoaked in sodium carbonate, left slightly damp.  If the fabric is dry, spritz with water first to aid in absorption.
  12. Store leftovers in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator.
  13. Shelf life is about one week, with blues and greens exhausting quickest.
  14. Wash tools used in sodium alginate in warm soapy water, with clear rinse.

To use SuperClear:

  1. Pour a small amount of SuperClear into each applicator bottle, shaking to mix,  to slow the spread of the dye.
  2. Use on fabric presoaked in sodium carbonate solution, slightly damp.  If the fabric is dry, spritz with water to aid in absorption.
  3. To stop the spreading completely pour 2-3 ounces of SuperClear in a small, lidded container.
  4. Mix liquid dye into the SuperClear a teaspoon at a time until the desired consistency is achieved to stop the spreading.
  5. Dry dye powder can also be mixed into SuperClear for deep, intense color.  Much stirring is required to dissolve dye powder into the gel.
  6. Test spreadability by dripping onto a paper towel.  Wait 30 second before evaluating the spread.
  7. Use with a brush, sponge, or stamp, or in a squeeze bottle.
  8. Shelf life of SuperClear mixed with dye is about 24-48 hours, with blues and greens exhausting most quickly.
  9. SuperClear can be saved in a tightly sealed container.
  10. SuperClear with dye solution added can be saved in a tightly sealed container, but hardens into a plastic-like substance if left in brushes or sponges that can not be removed.  Wash tools in warm soapy water and rinse in clear water to maintain suppleness.

GE DIGITAL CAMERA  GE DIGITAL CAMERA

Thickened dyes can be used as an enhancement to tie dye, by adding features such as facial features, pupils to eyes, or accents.

GE DIGITAL CAMERA  GE DIGITAL CAMERAGE DIGITAL CAMERA

Thickened dyes can be used in batik (wax resist) to ‘paint’ images that are then coated with melted wax.  After the wax has hardened, the background of the garment is dyed.

556818_450229101671945_545167399_n

The dye spreading is slowed to fill in areas between the wax applications, creating multi shades in the layering process of batik.

  GE DIGITAL CAMERA

Used as a paint, the dye can be applied with brushes to produce crisp images, subtle shading, with no bleeding of colors at all.

GE DIGITAL CAMERA

Because the thickener washes away, leaving only the dyed fibers, the resulting product is just as soft and pliable as the original fabric.  Unlike a painted surface, the ‘hand’ or feel of the fabric is unchanged by using thickening agents.  A white plastic ice tray makes a great  container, or palette tray for small amounts of thickened dyes.  Wash out brushes or sponges after each color change in warm water, and in warm soapy water at the end of a dyeing session.

I hope you found this information useful.  If so, please consider making a donation to help keep my site advertisement free.

 

 

 

5 Comments

Filed under How to, Using Fiber Reactive Dyes